{"id":5393,"date":"2024-07-19T18:38:37","date_gmt":"2024-07-19T18:38:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/tappstravels.co.uk\/?p=5393"},"modified":"2025-12-24T22:26:46","modified_gmt":"2025-12-24T22:26:46","slug":"15-brittany-and-home","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tappstravels.co.uk\/?p=5393","title":{"rendered":"15. BRITTANY AND HOME!"},"content":{"rendered":"

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This year, we have agreed a policy of staying at campsites we haven’t visited before.\u00a0 With three repeat sites already this trip, you would be forgiven for not recognising this plan!\u00a0 However, we have another opportunity to hit new ground in Brittany.\u00a0 We have selected what we understood to be a smallish, eco-friendly site a few kilometres north of Vannes.\u00a0 We “normally” stay on the south side of the Gulf of Morbihan.\u00a0 This time we are going to try out the opposite bank.\u00a0 The extensively named “Camping le Morbihan la Fontaine de Hallate” in Plougoumelen sounds right up our street.\u00a0 From the south, this can be approached via Ploeren with, as we discovered, millions of speed bumps, traffic calming measures and very narrow, constricted roads in the village.\u00a0 This was followed by miles of single track country roads.\u00a0 “This isn’t the best way, Barry!”<\/p>\n

The site was indeed very “eco”.\u00a0 With pretty gardens.\u00a0 But it was much bigger than we had imagined. Very spread out.\u00a0 It was also very shady.\u00a0 Too dark for us.\u00a0 So, change of plans.\u00a0 We could try a couple of other sites nearby.\u00a0 Or we could revisit Sarzeau.\u00a0 Sites we are not familiar with and not even sure how to get to from our current location vs known location, known facilities, knowledge of shading levels – comfortable.\u00a0 10 km onwards via twiddly roads vs 40 km backwards on dual carriageway.\u00a0 I think Glenda might have favoured the new and unexpected.\u00a0 I was keen just to get settled.\u00a0 I could see the “unexpected” turning swiftly into a “We’re not staying here, Barry” sort of situation.<\/p>\n

On balance, we decided to head back south, but to do this and avoid the horrible approach we made half an hour ago, we had to go a bit northwards before turning right on the main road.\u00a0 A quick call to the Ferme de Lann Hoedic to confirm they had a nice pitch available and we were off!<\/p>\n

The site, which we have used several times before, turned out to be much less busy than we have ever seen it.\u00a0 We were spoilt for choice!\u00a0 In the end we settled for a large open pitch in the second section.\u00a0 Mireille (the owner) thought the lack of campers was all to do with the French elections.\u00a0 Personally, I think the recent miserable, wet and cold weather rampant in this part of France for weeks might have been a contributing factor!\u00a0 The site did fill up a bit while we were there, but only slowly.\u00a0 And mainly with French campers.\u00a0 We’ve never seen so few Brits here.\u00a0 Maybe that’s because we are a week or two later on site than usual.\u00a0 They’ve all gone home to take advantage of the heat wave affecting the UK – and to watch the football!\u00a0 Oh and to vote – I almost forgot!<\/p>\n

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Here we are, established in a virtually empty part of the site.<\/p>\n

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The weather wasn’t wet, just cool.\u00a0 Blooming freezing, actually.\u00a0 But good for walking – except Glenda’s foot was getting sore – plantar fasciitis setting in, maybe?\u00a0 We walked a section of the coast path leading into St Jaques only to discover that it was their market day.\u00a0 The roast chickens look appealing.\u00a0 Change of plans.\u00a0 Back to the caravan for a hot chicken lunch!\u00a0 We have noticed that the price of food in France, especially meat and fruit, has rocketed in the last couple of years.\u00a0 No more so than in Brittany where the rotisserie chicken cost us an eye-watering \u20ac25!<\/p>\n

It’s really hard to make comparisons.\u00a0 Every meal is different.\u00a0 But I would say that the lunch we might have bought in Spain for about \u20ac15 (including a bottle of wine) was \u20ac20 – 25 in the SW of France rising to more than \u20ac30 in Brittany excluding any drinks!\u00a0 Even our favourite eatery in Sarzeau has changed ownership and hiked their price by at least 50%.\u00a0 While it used to be difficult to find reasonably priced meals on the Presqu’ile de Rhuys (where we are now), I’d venture to say it’s now virtually impossible!\u00a0 I’m going to have to get the BBQ out of the car and work out how to use it!<\/p>\n

In the meantime, we tried the cr\u00e8perie on the campsite (two young lads in the site’s small kitchen, four nights a week).\u00a0 Very acceptable cheese and ham galette with Glenda sticking to her balanced diet!<\/p>\n

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The Ile de Tascon can be walked to at low tide.\u00a0 There is a neat little car park right at the water’s edge.\u00a0 But a kilometre back up the road from St Armel, the local authorities have put up big signs to say during Summer, only locals and deliveries are allowed.\u00a0 The alternative car park is another kilometre further away.\u00a0 So, like an obedient tourist, I dropped Glenda off at the barrier to walk while I found a spot at which to abandon the car.\u00a0 A passing local just laughed at me and said the restrictions only apply in Summer.\u00a0 “It’s only the first week in July.\u00a0 You can drive to the causeway.”\u00a0 So I did.\u00a0 Picking up Glenda on the way.\u00a0 As we’ve noted before, the peak season is not a long season in France!<\/p>\n

To be fair, there isn’t much to do on Tascon Island.\u00a0 A little side walk to a really tiny island with a patch of sea lavender and that was it.<\/p>\n

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Off to one of our favourite spots.\u00a0 On the way to Le Passage.\u00a0 Chairs out of the car for a spot of sunbathing while the tide comes in and cuts off the four residents of Tascon from all known expensive restaurants for several hours!<\/p>\n

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That’s Tascon in the back ground.<\/p>\n

Brittany is littered with ancient stone structures.\u00a0 Standing stones as can be seen famously at Carnac.\u00a0 Then there are other more complex “constructed” dolmens.\u00a0 This part of the continent is littered with them.<\/p>\n

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There are dozens on the peninsula.\u00a0 And there are said to be heaps more on the larger islands in the gulf.\u00a0 Obelix, of Obelix and Asterix fame, must have lived near here!<\/p>\n

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Some of them look just like tables and benches!<\/p>\n

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We walked round the “Corniche Promenade” at the tip of the peninsula at Arzon.\u00a0 The tide was going out – fast.\u00a0 The catamarans were shooting out of the Gulf at lightning speed.<\/p>\n

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One of the ferries in Port Navalo taking cyclists out to the islands to inspect the megaliths.\u00a0 Another day we went to Suscinio (also known locally as Susinio\u00f9) to make sure the castle was still there!<\/p>\n

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It was and so were the wading birds in the salt marshes behind the beach below the castle.\u00a0 This time there was no sign of spoonbills, but there were hundreds of avocets – as common as ducks!\u00a0 There was also a pair of extremely long-legged waders.\u00a0 It looked like they were walking on stilts:<\/p>\n

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Aptly named black winged stilts!<\/p>\n

Time for a visit to the city of Vannes.\u00a0 We’ve been here before, but not recently.\u00a0 Easy parking underground close to the middle of town\u00a0near the Arts Centre.\u00a0 The Place de la Mairie and the city hall face the pedestrianised streets of the old town.<\/p>\n

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A gentle walk through these narrow streets towards the cathedral.<\/p>\n

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Past all the medieval, half-timbered houses …<\/p>\n

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… and some not so ancient, but architecturally, still very interesting buildings.<\/p>\n

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… to the Cath\u00e9dral St Pierre.<\/p>\n

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We ended the visit sitting by the port, watching a stream of yachts setting sail.\u00a0 I guess they were all aiming to catch the ebbing tide out of the Gulf.<\/p>\n

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On our last day in the area we revisited Penvins and walked round the promontory.\u00a0 Past the chapel, the Chapelle-Notre-Dame-de-la-C\u00f4te.<\/p>\n

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We appear to be in a FRAIRIE!\u00a0 You can learn something new every day (the problem is, remembering it the next day!).<\/p>\n

A frairie is a subdivision of a parish, which appeared in the Middle Ages and which survived until the French Revolution.\u00a0 They were very frequent in the duchy of Brittany.\u00a0 Basically, a tiny collection of rural houses.\u00a0 Often the locals got together and built their own chapel.\u00a0 This appears to be one such micro-church.<\/p>\n

Our time in France is rapidly drawing to a close.\u00a0 We timed our departure from Sarzeau superbly.\u00a0 There is a lovely restaurant with a massive carpark half way to Roscoff.\u00a0 We phoned ahead to reserve and had an animated discussion with their answerphone.\u00a0 We arrived at the perfect time to discover they were “Exceptionally closed on the 6 July”.\u00a0 No reason.\u00a0 Just closed.\u00a0 Don’t you just love it when a carefully selected plan falls to pieces!\u00a0 So it’ll be an improvised meal in the caravan tonight!<\/p>\n

In line with the “different-places-to-stay” policy we decided to try an alternative site near Roscoff.\u00a0 Camping Ar Rock is a small site about 20 minutes to the West of the port.\u00a0 Down some very narrow lanes.\u00a0 Overlooking the sea.\u00a0 Rather small pitches.\u00a0 We were just wandering around selecting our best option when the PA system in the little bar burst into activity with loud music.\u00a0 “How long does that racket go on?”\u00a0 “Well, we have a licence till 1 am!”\u00a0 “We’re not staying here Barry!”\u00a0 So\u00a0 back through the lanes.\u00a0 It’ll be a night on the docks with not quite enough water!<\/p>\n

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But very convenient for the morning!\u00a0 The car next to us had somehow got a flat battery.\u00a0 The breakdown truck arrived at 10 pm.\u00a0 But apart from that it was very peaceful!\u00a0 The Pont Aven duly arrived and we slid aboard.<\/p>\n

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Looking back – it’s been a really good holiday.\u00a0 Even though we did have a leaky water pump at the outset; a mega deviation in the Picos Mountains; 14 hairpins up to the camp at Urbasa; an ant Invasion near Dausse; lots of mud and gunge in Cognac le For\u00eat; trouble with lightning at Dou\u00e9; dodgy sites and closed restaurants all over the place – to name but a few of the more “challenging” bits!\u00a0 All part of life’s rich pattern!<\/p>\n

You might be forgiven for thinking that was the end of our trials and tribulations…<\/p>\n

Towing home, we found the main road outside Totnes closed (ferm\u00e9e!).\u00a0 There had been a nasty accident some six hours previously.\u00a0 Two pedestrians in hospital.\u00a0 Seventy three police officers at the site surveying the scene.\u00a0 But NOT doing any traffic control.\u00a0 None whatsoever.\u00a0 No deviations indicated.\u00a0 There is only one alternative route to Totnes (short of returning to the A38 and getting home via Newton Abbot\u00a0 – possibly an hour diversion!).\u00a0 It’s a narrow country lane.\u00a0 Less than a mile!\u00a0 Suffice it to say that after an hour and a half of fairly challenging manoeuvres, we emerged back on the road some 500 m beyond the road block.\u00a0 Via a lane signposted as unsuitable for vehicles over 6 foot 6 inches wide.\u00a0 In the last 20 m we had to get round the end wall of a cottage.\u00a0 No problem, we had at least half an inch to spare.\u00a0 Actually, neither of us really knows how the caravan escaped without injury!\u00a0 With hindsight, the long deviation via Newton Abbot would have been ideal!\u00a0 And quicker!<\/p>\n

By the way, we have discovered Devon’s “speed bumps”.\u00a0 Locally, they are called pot-holes!<\/p>\n

So there you have it.\u00a0 On this trip we have driven almost 3,000 miles, of which we towed the caravan 1,242 miles. (Overall, we have hauled it 25,212 miles in the ten years since we bought it!)\u00a0 This tour brings our total nights spent in this caravan to 925.<\/p>\n

Now we have to repack the van.\u00a0 We are off to Dorset at the end of next week!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

[pmb_print_buttons] This year, we have agreed a policy of staying at campsites we haven’t visited before.\u00a0 With three repeat sites already this trip, you would be forgiven for not recognising this plan!\u00a0 However, we have another opportunity to hit new… <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[53],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5393","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-spain-and-france-2024"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/tappstravels.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5393","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/tappstravels.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/tappstravels.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tappstravels.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tappstravels.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5393"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/tappstravels.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5393\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5437,"href":"https:\/\/tappstravels.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5393\/revisions\/5437"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/tappstravels.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5393"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tappstravels.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5393"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tappstravels.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5393"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}