Tapp's Travels

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While at Nunnykirk, the temperatures dropped from the high 20s to frosty.  Overnight!.  Admittedly,  only very early one morning.  But ice on the grass was a bit of a shock, and highlighted our “slightly” inadequate selection of clothes packed!  Still, the reason for ice on the grass was clear skies above.  So, ideal conditions for coastal walking. We’ve never been to Low Newton-by-the-Sea, a tiny, picturesque village almost entirely owned by the National Trust  Well not in living memory, anyway.  So, time to put that right.  And it’s low tide in the middle of the day.  Good omen!

We did look at the Ship Inn for possible lunch, but it was heaving, so that got a skip!

But the beach was almost deserted!

And we get our first view of Dunstanburgh Castle across Embleton Bay.

The castle was built at a time when relations between King Edward II and his most powerful baron, Earl Thomas of Lancaster, had become openly hostile. Lancaster began to build the fortress in 1313, and he built it on a far grander scale than was originally planned.  Perhaps more as a symbol of his opposition to the king than as a military stronghold.  Anyway, it didn’t save Lancaster’s bacon because he was captured while away from home and executed in 1322.

The following day, we were heading for Longhoughton and Sugar Sands, but BMW’s dodgy sat nav took us unnecessarily close to Alnmouth, so we diverted to Foxton Golf Club for a coffee before walking south on the beach at low tide, back to Alnmouth.

Walking round Alnmouth, we discovered some of its peculiarities.  Like the Schooner Hotel aka the “Haunted Hotel”…

Then back to Foxton and on further north towards Boulmer.  This time on the coastal path because the tide was in.

After Sunday lunch (back at the Cook and Barker Inn again), we investigated our next campsite – Proctor’s Stead near Craster.  Booked and paid for.  Sorted – another six nights!

Late in the afternoon, the weather took a turn for the better and we walked north from Craster and got a different view of Dunstanburgh Castle.  It looks a wreck from this side too!

Apparently,  there are more than 70 castles (in various stages of decay) in Northumberland.  More than in any other county in England.  But we’ve seen just one on this trip so far, although we have seen it both from the North and from the South.

As we walked towards the castle, we met an American couple on a tour of the UK.  They had had two days in London, a day in Bath, a day in the Cotswolds, a stop-over in the Lake District before the day in Northumberland.   I think they had another day or two in Edinburgh before heading back to Arizona via London Heathrow.  They had just enough time to take our photo (see above) and relate their itinerary.   We had to sit down for 10 minutes.  We were so tired just listening to their itinerary!

Monday dawned a bit damp and we discovered that we were gradually being left isolated in the middle of the site.  Everyone is going home!

After lunch the weather perked up and the sun came out.  We still had Cragside on the list of things to do while in the area.  So, Cragside it was.  Ignoring the house (where Lord William Armstrong lived and Queen Victoria visited***), we headed straight for Nelly Moss Lakes.  Two bodies of water originally engineered by Lord Armstrong as part of his pioneering Victorian hydro-electricity system.  Cragside was the first house in the world to be lit by hydroelectric power.

Two laps of the lakes gives us the best part of a three mile walk.

While pausing at the top end, we were invaded by a gang of red admiral butterflies.  One of which took up residence on my hat …

Well, well, as Hans would say.  That’s another great day completed.

The alert amongst you will have noticed that we had got to Monday!

Although we had had good intentions of attending it, the Thursday barn dance had come and gone… UNDANCED!  Well, undanced by us anyway!

*** Footnote…  It is not at all clear that Queen Victoria ever actually visited Cragside, although her granddaughters certainly did.  The “Victoria Carriageway” is actually the “Cragside Carriageway”.  Sorry about the misinformation above!  You just can’t always trust the locals!