We were trying to emulate the explorative adventures of the early settlers. The Blue Mountains, part of the Great Dividing Range, created an impenetrable barrier inland from the coastal region. It remained impenetrable (to Europeans) until 1813, when Gregory Blaxland, William Charles Wentworth and William Lawson became the first European settlers to successfully navigate a path across the Blue Mountains. It took them three weeks to complete the crossing, but within five years there was a trail constructed suitable for horses and carriages! A little quicker than the construction of HS2 in England.
By 1820, there were 114 Europeans living on the Bathurst Plains. In only four years, this grew to more than 1,200. Another drought, the arrival of flocks of sheep and the fencing of land disrupted their food supplies to such a degree that the First Nations peoples around Bathurst realised that their way of life was fundamentally threatened. Trouble was brewing!
Anyway! A fleet of buses had been commandeered to take us to Lithgow. There was a brief stop at Echo Point, Katoomba for more champagne (to keep all of us punters in a state of semi-stupor – and, therefore, fairly happy!) The lookout has absolutely fabulous views of the Three Sisters.
I’m guessing that the Prince Henry Cliff Pathway is named after Prince Henry William Frederick Albert, Duke of Gloucester, Former Governor-General of Australia. Not Prince Harry/Henry of California. But strang things are just possible in this wonderful country.
At Lithgow, the announcement “The train arriving at platform two is the delayed India Pacific train to Adelaide and Perth” was repeated five times. Between each announcement the train shuffled forward one platform length. After all, 870 metre long trains with 35 carriages rarely stop at the little country station of Lithgow!
Coach H eventually pitches up bang in front of us, and we were on. We rattled and banged, swayed and rocked as we got moving. Very late and without our checked in luggage. That was on a truck which had taken a wrong turning and had to meet the train in Bathurst in the middle of the night. But there’s another problem lurking there, as we will discover in Adelaide.
We said when we rode the Ghan Train from Alice to Darwin that we would never again take a long distance rail trip on Australian heritage railways. But time fades memories – and here we are! However this trip has cemented that resolution. We rattled and rolled all night! As we disembarked, a number of passengers for Perth offered us their cabins. They were not looking forward to another two nights on the “Rattler”!
But, we wanted to visit Broken Hill and we had decided it was a bit too far to drive on this occasion. Pulling into the desert township at just after 7 am, nearly an hour late, we had no idea that the train would have flown straight through had we been delayed by another five minutes. If it’s not there by 7.15 am, it doesn’t stop!
The walking tour of town was guided by the local drag queen, Shelita Buffet. We were a bit worried that the experience might be a bit odd. But, in the event, the tour turned out to be the absolute highlight of the trip. The town was much more genteel than we expected. Wide roads and some lovely old buildings which are now protected with blanket heritage status.
Shelita was a big girl! She had an encyclopedic knowledge of the town’s history. Well, she has been doing this tour at least once a week for eight years – so I suppose she should have! Her sense if humour was superb, just what was needed! She showed us the post office …
… the town hall with the only gargoyl in town …
We had morning tea at the Trades Hall. (Never too early for a glass or two of champagne – it was approaching 8 am by this time after all!)
We heard stories of the town’s mining history including some of the industry’s biggest industrial actions. Broken Hill sits on one of the world’s largest lead, zinc and silver deposits. There are still two highly mechanized mining operations in town, but with very limited employment opportunities.
One of the old wooden pit-head structures has been dismantled and “remantled” in one of the town’s carparks.
One of BH’s other claims to fame is that it was home to Pro Hart, a famous artist. One of his larger works depicts a giant ant. For me that’s another piece I don’t need at home!
As we headed back to the train, we passed the historic Palace Hotel.
Originally built as a temperance coffee emporium, the hotel was used as a stop-over for the characters in the 1994 Australian iconic movie, “Priscilla Queen of the Desert”. It was this film that inspired the drag-artist tours. Fabulous murals apparently adorn the interior walls. Sadly, we didn’t have time to see them. Must watch the movie!
So, we’ve been and seen Broken Hill. I have to say that a longer stop would have been much better. It was a fascinating place made even better by Shelita’s commentary. But we have a train to catch.
Has our luggage caught up with us? Don’t ask leading questions!
It is a pity that you weren’t in BH longer . It is a fascinating area and there is so much to see.
We were all taught about Blaxland, Wentworth and Lawson when Marie and I were at school. Now they would not rate a mention, and if they did, it would be for invading the western plains. Never mind – William the Conqueror is still mentioned in British history, so there is still hope.