It’s my turn to choose the itinerary for the day. I know Glenda wants a scenic walk close to base – so that’s it. Decision made! Just the other side of Malpartida de Plasencia there is a collection of small reservoirs. At the first of these, we headed over the dam and off up the via pecuaria.
There are dozens of these VPs about – there must have been a lot of droving in days gone by. To be fair, we saw about a thousand goats being herded by a lonely goat-herd – although he seemed to be using the road, not the adjacent VP. (It sounds like someone should write a song about him!)
Lovely countryside. Gently rolling hills. Grassy fields with herds of cows and calves. Cows with cow-bells in enclosed fields. Why? Maybe it’s to help the farmer find his farm after a morning in the café-bar with the boys.
We met the local outlaw gang making a break on horseback from the local sheriff. But they had time to pose for us!
We even got a great view of a passing mongoose.
Apparently, Egyptian mongooses, also known as ichneumons, are widespread in this neck of the woods. Probably introduced from Africa – not native. A real pain according to locals. They eat anything and everything on which they can get their sticky paws. I suppose one advantage is that they deal with all the cobras!
Our picnic stop was a flat-topped, dry stone wall. Our picnic was a bottle of water and two rather disgusting local replicas of Opal Fruits. I must remember to pack food when we go out walking in the country where restaurants are few and far between!
Talking of forgetting things (and I’m not talking about BBQs here), there is a young couple camping next to us. They seemed to be sleeping in their tiny car last night. It transpires that when they arrived on site and unpacked the car, they discovered they had forgotten to pack their tent! They’ve been into town today and bought a new one! Oh, to be young again! “John, where’s the perishing caravan, didn’t you hitch it on when we left home?”
Anyway, as I was saying, walk ten out of ten, picnic zero!
The Jerte Valley runs for some 60 km in a NE-SW direction enclosed on both sides by mountainous ridges over 1000 m high. Our failed picnic was in the next valley, to the SE of the Jerte. A drive into the hills after our walk took us to the village of Arroyomolinos de la Vera. A sleepy looking town, which on closer examination on foot, was actually hibernating, not just napping. It had a deserted air about it and certainly no restaurants or bars. The only thing we found going for it was the stunning view from the mirador at the top of town.
And a rather nice (almost totally deserted, of course) square with town hall and church (both securely locked up for the winter season).
OK, so we’ll try the next place… Paserón de la Vera.
Villages and towns round here have several things in common: no open shops, bars or cafés; no people; narrow streets; an ancient church (usually dedicated to Sainte Maria!); fantastic views and miles of posh street lighting and paved promenades along the approach roads.
The region has obviously benefitted from bulk purchase of literally thousands of fake gas-lamps. (Good old EU money!) (I didn’t get a photo, so I’ve had to borrow one from Google Street View.)
Some enclaves could be reached on well maintained, well illuminated paths from the neighbouring village during the hours of darkness. Except, our evidence suggests, there is no one to make such a journey – and not much reason to do so anyway! But it’s early. It’s only April. And we are here in full daylight! Maybe when the lights come on, the bars open and locals walk to visit their neighbours up the valley.
Time for home – via Jaraiz de la Vera. We had got stuck in the middle of a procession in the back streets of this town last time we visited. We’re not falling for that trick again, Barry. So we stuck to the main roads as we headed back to camp for a bit of sunbathing.
The next day, flushed with the success of yesterday’s walk and with memories of no refreshments carried, we headed for the next reservoir up the valley. But today started coolish at a frisky -2°C. And by 11 am, the Mercury was still hovering at a challenging 6°C and there was a significant breeze. Not only that, but we were higher up the valley and the path was much more open. Lucky we brought scarves and winter gloves!
After 20 minutes, we gave in and beat a hasty retreat – taking with us the cheese sandwiches, two slices of cake, a tin of biscuits and a can of beer which I had packed. Just can’t win!
The Jerte Valley is a mere 10 km away as the crow flies, but about 60 km by road. We passed several more “illuminated paths” on the way to the top of the pass at 830 m. (We elected to take the relatively “low” road.) There were plenty more cherry trees this side of the mountains…
… but there were no restaurants in sight – anywhere! Certainly no open restaurants! We stopped again in Barrado having been narrowly missed by the mountain bus which appears to terminate here despite having no passengers. (Or maybe because it has no passengers!) Barrado was deserted. Closed up. Another “come-back-in-June” sort of place with great views of distant civilisation.
Ditto, Cabreo Cáceres, but at least we are now in the Jerte Valley. The sleepy hamlet of Casas del Castaña clings to the mountain side overlooking the valley miles below. Houses around Brixham Harbour are well known for having at least one floor more on their downhill side. Here they have three! Houses on the perilous side of the road are not for the faint hearted! However…
… Glenda spots a blue “knife and fork” sign. An open restaurant with parking for five cars.
The Restaurant Garganta had seating for at least 100 guests. I don’t know where they all plan to park! Luckily there were only four of us eating. Eating what turned out to be one of the best meals we have had in Spain! The pork with lemon was particularly memorable, as was the lemon crème desert! Persistence pays off – especially in a country where lunch is served until at least 4 pm!
And don’t you just love it when the aseos rooms are clearly labelled! Anyone still not sure, has to go in the long grass out the back!
So we returned home with our extensive picnic intact!