Tapp's Travels

On the way to Cádiz, while travelling almost due North, we seemed to have lost a couple of hours sleep.  Interesting how national policies on time and “summer time” work to confuse us mortal travellers.

Cádiz.  A lovely city.  Possibly one of our three favourite Spanish cities.  Up there with Cordoba and Seville.

From our balcony we can see the “Catedral de la Santa Cruz de Cádiz” with its golden dome.  Our ship is parked right in the centre of town.  Really nice!

Today, we are going on an excursion to the White Villages of Andalusia.   Specifically, to Arcos de la Frontera.  Not, as we originally thought, to Veger de la Frontera, which we had visited with Glenda’s brother and his wife a few years ago.

But before we head off into the country our driver took us on a detour in through the old city gates.  In, and out again!

The Earth Gate (Puerta de Tierra), as it is called, is a significant historical landmark in Cádiz.  It stands at the entrance of the old town.  Basically on a roundabout!  The gate was built during the 16th century, replacing the old medieval walls, which could no longer accommodate the city’s growth.

During the early 20th century, two large arches were created to allow the passage of tour buses (and other vehicles!).  Well, we used both arches on our little detour.

Then it was off North-Eastwards.  Our first view of Arcos was from a mirador adjacent to a cafe with a loo.  Very handy following a 70 km drive straight after breakfast with its cups of tea, coffee and orange juice!  While the cafe owner was busy “discussing” the price of using her facilities with the first lady in line, the rest of us quickly nipped in behind her.  After that, we could admire the view.  Here’s a photo of us not looking at the view.

Climbing the steep path into town from the coach parking area, we discovered that today was the one day in the year when there is a bull run through the streets of Arcos.  Excellent planning!  The centre was predictably packed.  The bulls were released at the top of town at noon.  We arrived at 11.55 am.  By the time I had retreated to the bus to look for Glenda’s handbag which was mysteriously missing, (feared stolen), and returned back up the hill with said bag (which had been safely hidden on our seats), I just saw a fleeting glimpse of the last wild bull in the far distance.  But at least I did see one!

The streets were well penned off to keep the crowd safe – apart from those brave ??? souls who ran with the bulls.

Onwards and upwards through the narrow streets …

… to a welcome glass of wine and some light refreshments in the beautiful parador.  The Parador de Arcos de la Frontera, was once a palace, the “Casa del Corregidor”. The internal patio was a delightful and peaceful haven …

The parador is located in a three-sided plaza along with the Ducal Castle and the Santa María church.  There’s a great deal of restoration and renovation going on in the plaza.  Probably a timely move as the church looked ready to fall down.  The Basílica de Santa María de la Asunción …

From the terrace there were sweeping views over the cliffs that drop dramatically to the Guadalete River.  With the Iglesia de San Pedro perched high on the hill.  Itself a building from the sixteenth century.  It had been a collegiate church in the fourteenth century and it sits on the remains of what was possibly a Muslim fortress,  A reflection of the various religions which have prevailed in the region over the ages

All very pretty.  All very historic.  Lots of dancing and singing in the streets.  Very atmospheric!  An excellent visit.  That was, until I tripped on the steps on the way back down to the coach.  A great impression of Superman.  Great, until the landing part of the flight!  A fellow cruiser who is a specialist dermatologist from the USA took over and raided the on board first aid kit.  So I got instant, professional treatment.  However, my knee is still not fully healed two weeks later – AND we are awaiting a bill from Nevada!

On the way back to the ship, we passed the lagoons near Cádiz which are home to flocks of flamingos.  Except, on this occasion, they didn’t show!  Flamingos are migratory birds and arrive in southern Spain in January and February. In March, they start building their nests. After laying one egg per couple, chicks are born in April or May.  So they jolly well should have been present!

That night we sailed later than planned.  Great news.  Dinner could be eaten in the calm waters of the harbour!  It was nearly dark when we unloaded our pilot and set off for Barcelona.

After about 30 minutes, the motion of the boat altered very slightly – we had turned round.  First thought was that someone had been taken seriously ill (much worse than a skinned knee).  But then the captain turned round again.  The patient must have recovered.  We were back on course for Barcelona!  Over the next hour or two we made a total of four 180 degree manoeuvres before the captain announced that, “due to a technical problem we were returning to Cádiz for repairs and a safety inspection!”

By pure chance I had activated a tracking app on my phone …

So, after steaming for over 40 miles we tied up immediately opposite our original berth.

The next morning we were told that we would depart at 6 pm.  We had a free day in the city!  Fabulous!  For us!  We have a four day buffer in Barcelona.  But 80% of the passengers were citizens of the US of A.  Many of these had tight connections.  There was a fair bit of phrenetic “activity” on board while we enjoyed a peaceful, warm and unhurried day in the city.

We walked from the port area past our temporary home on the water…

… past the “Wind Surf”, a five-masted cruise ship – said to be the largest sailing cruise ship in the world.  It can carry up to 310 guests in 154 staterooms.

… and on via the Plaza San Juan de Dios …

… and then to the Plaza de la Catedral.

And what do you know?  The cathedral just happens to be Km 0 on the Via Augusta of The Camino de Santiago!  This is the second trail starting point we have visited (the other being at Cape Finisterre, which we visited with our caravan on a previous trip)!  This trail runs some 165 km to Seville where the pilgrims (or peregrinos) join the Via de la Plata, heading North (for the remaining 960 kms to Santiago!).  The Via Augusta was originally built by the Romans so that people of Rome could get to South-west Spain to see the flamingos!

The architecture is beautiful all around.  We walked onto the sea front …

… and on towards the Castillo de San Sebastian at the very NW end of the peninsula.

The fort is temporarily shut for renovation, but the walk out on the breakwater-cum-access path is beautiful.

Back on ship, we get the news that we won’t be sailing till 10 pm.  Still no worries (for us – we still have two clear days buffer) – it’s lovely warm weather and the ABBA concert has been moved from the theatre to the pool deck!

Dancing with Harry and his wife from Switzerland.

Full participation!  An excellent day – the best of the whole trip, even!

We eventually leave port at about 1 am for sea trials and then depart for Barcelona a couple of hours later.

We woke just in time to see Gibralter off the port beam.

And the sea was as flat as the proverbial mill pond!  As seen from our balcony.

Must be the calm before the storm!  We haven’t had a disaster this trip – well not yet, anyway…