We’ve had the occasional ant join us in the caravan at Conil. When we came to pack up, we discovered hundreds of the blighters had taken up residence in our battery locker. Easy access up the power cable – and probably a bit warmer inside than out. At least we know where our unwanted visitors were based! Localised chemical warfare declared!
As we head up the A4, towards Cadiz, we find the road closed. Everything has to divert off the motorway. Handy with a caravan! However, it transpired that it was a random alcohol check. As we approached the check point, we could see the look in the policeman’s eyes as he tried to remember the words for “blow”, “into” and “tube”, He obviously failed because he waved us straight through – and back onto the autopista. Phew! Not that we had been drinking champagne at breakfast time! Of course we hadn’t!
About 150 km east, we arrive at Olvera. The town is on one hill and our campsite is conveniently placed on the top of the next hill. The rain forecast for 3pm, arrived at 4pm. By then, we were all set up with a magnificent view…
We decided to try the restaurant attached to the site. Big mistake. The place has great reviews but was sadly lacking in both ambience and culinary excellence! OK, so we are in low season, but we still expect.a decent standard of food for 40€. This is one of the occasions when we regret our almost total lack of Spanish! (Like when you get hijacked, or you need new tyres or a water pump or your fridge fails or you need new gas regulator!)
On Saturday, (not really a good choice of days, but the only guaranteed dry day) we went to visit Ronda. There are two ways to go. The shorter, cross country route via Sentenil and miles of twiddly roads just wide enough on which to pass a goat, or the longer main road which doesn’t actually go through anywhere and where no-one can pass because of continuous white lines! Turn left or right out of the campsite respectively. We chose left.
After negotiating a few goats and several cyclists we paused at the tiny settlement of Torre Alháquime.
We drove up to the top of the village until the roads became too narrow for the car, or just became dead ends or transmogrified into steps. We abandoned the car in the only place big enough and continued with mountaineering kit to the summit, where we had our mandatory coffees con leche. Reversing around several blind corners, we found the tiny square where had had coffees. Locals were setting up some sort of event involving tables, tablecloths and food. After getting a small white van to reverse out of our way and some of the tables dismantled and pushed aside, we squeezed out! Just! As Glenda said, we should have parked at the bottom and walked up. But that wouldn’t have been any fun!
Back on the road, we were joined by a peloton of cyclists. Their uniform identified them as the Sentenil Road Racing Team. Worryingly, they were passing us on the uphill stretches, not just the downhill bits!
Sentenil de las Bodegas, as it is known locally, is “famous” for its whitewashed houses built into the surrounding cliffs.
Sadly, that’s not my photograph. The town was a traffic jam with coach-loads of weekend tourists. The only things moving were the cycling team weaving their way around coaches and cars! Well, obviously, that’s not strictly true because we escaped by back roads towards Ronda. But there was no parking for miles. Apparently, the town’s hilltop castle was once an Arab fortress. So it sounds like a good place to visit – on a weekday!
And so, into Ronda. Parking on the outskirts, we walked a mile on the Avenida Malaga directly into the central shopping zone. There seemed to me to be a lot of shoe shops and little boutiques but Glenda came out unladen. We found the Puente Nuevo (“New” Bridge) just where it was last time we visited the city.
It’s the newest and largest of three bridges that spanned the 120-metre-deep chasm that carries the Guadalevín River and divides the city of Ronda. But everything is relative! It was completed in 1793. So it’s not really very nuevo!
Drinks on the small terrace of the parador right beside the bridge; serenaded by a guitarist. All very romantic!
Actually, I don’t think he was playing just for us, but he was very accomplished. There is a lovely walkway that has been constructed on and, in places, over the edge of the cliffs. This gives a superb view over the surrounding countryside. But best for non sufferers of vertigo!
There were several peregrine falcons wheeling and swooping along the cliff edge. Very acrobatic! Other wildlife around seemed a little more intimidating…
Time for home, by the main roads – when we eventually work out what the road we want has been renumbered as. Maybe we should invest in a map printed this century!
More from Olvera to follow.
Ronda looks beautiful. The last time I said that, I got a backhander from Marie – well, I was referring to her best friend, in tones that were a tad too enthusiastic.
You visit very beautiful places.
When I go to Ronda I will certainly give the
” a lovely walkway that has been constructed on and, in places, over the edge of the cliffs. This gives a superb view over the surrounding countryside.” a WIDE berth.