Tapp's Travels

11. THE CHER

The trip northwards from the Lot valley was fairly uneventful.  Long, but uneventful.  No “Routes Barrées”.  No low bridges.  Just six hours driving.  There was one brief “moment” when a passing driver was waving frantically at us and pointing to our roof.  Just for a moment it brought back memories of the attempted hijack last year in Spain.  However, this was a British caravanner who we had just parked beside in a rest area.  One of our roof lights had slipped off its catch and was flapping about in the breeze.  No problem.  Soon fixed!

Camping Les Cochards is located on the banks of the River Cher, just outside the village of St. Aignan.

Early morning tea as the mist clears…

… and as the sun sets…

It’s very peaceful here (if we discount our neighbours’ young boy who doesn’t talk, he just shouts.)  However, on our third day here the local council decides to start clearing water-weed from the river just upstream of the campsite.  They have two amphibious vehicles.

… and they start at 6.00 am.  … and they are quite noisy!  Still, the main reason for coming to this area was to visit Chateau Chaumont and the International Garden Festival.  Cunningly, we chose the only really wet day to go.  The advantages of this were that the gardens looked very “fresh” in the wet – and the showers had a distinctly discouraging effect on the groups of children visiting.  The disadvantage was that we too got a bit wet despite two umbrellas and waterproofs!

Ironically, the gardens this year were reflecting the need for “resilient”, drought-tolerant plantings.  One thing that was noticeably absent was a grass lawn.  Not a one in sight!  However, a frequently occuring feature was water.  Ponds, drainage arrangements, fountains and streams – although some of these were just dry rocky channels.  A number of the gardens were apparently recovering from forest fires with charred trunks standing in what looked like coal.  A few gardens seemed not to be following the brief and had wonderful displays of “cottage garden” plants.

And the use of mirrors gave the opportunity for the occasional selfie!

To us, the gardens seemed more subdued than on our previous visit, five years ago.  The artistic installations were more or less unchanged – impressive, but unchanged.  One huge “curtain/mural” some 25 x 4 metres hung in one of the outbuildings…

… it was made of pull rings from drink cans!

Somebody has clearly got a drinking disorder!

The chateau itself was typically grand…

With an internal courtyard…

… from which there was a superb, panoramic view of the Loire (with the occasional gabarre) …

We’ve ordered one of these beds for the caravan.  Hope it comes flat-packed!

In the attic there was a multi-scteen exhibition of images based on flowers but with all the pixels mixed up in a dynamic, moving display on four massive, floor-to-ceiling screens.

Sounds odd.  But it was rather good, actually.  We watched it for ages.  The artist is Davide Quayola.  I’m sure his stuff can be seen on-line if you are interested.

Talking of “pixels” and “mixed up” reminds me of an old veterinary friend in Helston.  Noel always used the word “pixelated” to describe one’s condition after a night in the Blue Anchor drinking Spingo!

Last time we were in Amboise we didn’t get to see much of the town.  A quick walk beside the Loire.  A long-range photo of the chateau and we had to leave in a hurry.  Circumstances!  This time we went on my birthday and Glenda chose the restaurant for my birthday party!  Restaurante L’Ilôt.  It gets five stars and is described as providing “Inventive gourmet plates prepared in a down-to-earth restaurant with an open kitchen.”  It also provides very limited choices.  Like it or lump it!  We decided to like it – and we did an “Uncle Ed” with respect to parking.  The narrow back streets of Amboise were absolutely jammed with cars (often apparently abandoned) in ALL available spaces.  All except the one slot immediately outside the restaurant!  Thank you Edwin!

After lunch we ambled around the streets of the old town …

… where there were all sorts of low-to-minimal-calorie items for sale…

… and under the walls of the chateau …

… we found the loos publiques.  That’s one thing French towns and villages do very well.  At least the provision is good.  Sometimes what is provided is “interesting “!  So loos and free parking have been well catered for everywhere we’ve been.  In major cities, things are probably rather different.
We enjoyed a visit to Montrichard, especially the Cheval Blanc and just aimlessly walking round the streets.  And on the eve of my birthday,  we hit Blois – the biggest town we’ve seen in recent weeks.  Every year Blois puts on an evening of music, song and dance to celebrate my special day.  Avignon does it too even in my absence!

 

Actually, as Glenda has pointed out, the Festival  of Music occurs all across France on this date.  A happy coincidence!

Anyway this stay on the banks of the Cher has been another delightful experience!  And, after a week, it’s time to head further north to Brittany.  But I’ve just notced that the timeliness of this post is a little distorted.  I must be pixellated!

TBC

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