Tapp's Travels

11. BRISBANE CITY.

The Labor Government decided it needed a really good vote winner.  They elected to go for reasonably priced public transport.  This would have the dual advantages of being a vote winner AND moving a lot of vehicle journeys off the roads.  Maybe!

The scheme was introduced throughout Queensland as a six month trial in the lead-up to last year’s state election by the then-Labor government.  The LNP quickly promised to match it and made it “permanent” after they won power.  Whatever the journey, by rail, tram, bus or ferry (on public transport) it was charged at a flat rate.

It has proved very popular with public transport users, to the surprise of absolutely no-one!  The use of buses has gone up by 16%, trains by 24% and ferries by 43%.

The amazing part of this story is the cost of the actual fare.  You can now travel any distance for just – wait for it –  50 cents.  That’s about 25p in the UK!  So the two of us travelled nearly two hours on the train from Nambour to Central Station in Brisbane for a total cost of $1.  No wonder you now can’t park within 10 km of any train station in the state!  Cars are abandoned everywhere!  For the record, based on our limited experience, a dollar would buy a maximum of ten minutes parking in the city.  And that’s if you can find a space!

Robin and Linda have recently bought an apartment in central down town Brisbane.  (Located at the blue spot on the “b” of “Brisbane”!)

We were able to rent this from them at a very reasonable cost.  Thank you Robin and Linda!  We planned a four night peaceful break with Jeff and Laurel, friends from Melbourne who we had met years ago on a trip through the Kimberley.  In the event, it was extended by a day when Glenda’s brother arrived for an appointment in the city the day before our visitors got here.

He had a hire car and we took advantage of this and cadged a ride to the top of Mt. Coot-tha.  This is actually listed as a mountain AND a suburb of Brisbane.  But in the 2021 census, Mount Coot-tha had a population of exactly zero people.  However, there is a panoramic view of Brisbane City from the top.  In days gone by, rumour has it that the local Aboriginal tribes used to collect honey in the area.

In 1839, according to Mr Google, a surveyor cleared the top of the mountain of all trees except one large eucalypt tree.  Because this single tree could be seen from many other locations, it was used as a trigonometric point.  This led to the mountain being called One Tree Hill.  But in 1883, the hill was given its current name.  (Coot-tha has been suggested by some as an Aboriginal word for honey.)

We had a gastronomic tour of the city.  With John, we hit Gilhooleys – the Irish pub.  It had a number of advantageous points.  It was very close (and it was raining), it was reasonably priced, it did steaks, they had Guinness on tap – and, most importantly, the landlady had talons!

With Jeff and Laurel we went Italian at Toscano Bar and Kitchen (very good),

Thai at Pochana (Excellent) and Australian at the Beach House Bar and Grill (superb salmon).  We did do things other than eat, but I just wanted to record these places before I forget!

At the south end of our street we find the Botanic Gardens (now renamed the City Botanic Gardens since the main Botanic Gardens were relocated to Mt. Coo-tha in 1970).  44 acres of green parklands right in the middle of the city.

A magnificent old fig tree with its aerial roots.

We were hoping for a peaceful break.  In the event,  it turned out rather less so.  Immediately adjacent to our tower block, the Cross-River Rail was being built.

Robin and Linda’s apartment is located at the red spot – it has a commanding view of the “activity”!

The old metro station is being redeveloped as a main line station.  Work proceded round the clock.  The first night a huge floor was concreted.

Cranes buzzed and craned, concrete delivery trucks delivered and concrete pumps pumped.  All night long!  By morning the concrete floaters and polishers were floating and polishing.  The second night, the next level wall rebar reinforcement was installed and the shuttering built.  The third night walls were concreted and wooden panels laid like a massive jigsaw all over the higher level “roof”.  Possibly ready for subsequent concreting.  The only time noise reduced to an acceptable level for a residential area was during rain showers.  We found ourselves praying for nocturnal precipitation!

Sadly, our prayers were answered – but only partly.  We got rain, but mainly during daylight hours!  And the streets flooded from time to time …

… a scooter abandoned outside our front door!  We did get some dry weather – but largely at night!  On the plus side, we did get to see some of the city illuminations.  The Story Bridge by night …

… the Kangaroo Point Green Pedestrian Bridge …

… and the town hall in two colour modes on successive nights.

We got to explore the South Bank, site of Expo 88.  This A$625 million fair attracted nearly 16 million visitors who bought tickets worth A$175 million.  I’m not certain that rates a financial success, but I am sure there were other financial benefits to add to the equation!

The view of the city skyline from the South Bank was pretty spectacular, both from the 21st floor of the Emporium Hotel …

… and the riverside walk.

We had heard that the new casino and Star Hotel was in danger of collapsing.  We gave it a wide berth until it was explained that the casino was liable to collapse financially.  So, after all, we can visit the open-air Star Skydeck with its glass floors looking straight down.  Except we can’t find the right lift to take us to the 23rd floor.  Apparently, Jeff and Laurel had no difficulty.  The rats!  Oh well, did we really need to be discombobulated by the “walking on air” experience?

We took three rides on the City-Cats.  Transport is getting expensive now!  Those trips added another three dollars to the bill!  For that sum, both of us travelled to all but the three most downstream stops.  Nineteen stations, twice each, over a distance of 24 kms.  A 48 km ferry journey for $1.50 each.  We are going to have to have a word with Brittany Ferries!

The South Bank is home to the State library (fabulous), the Playhouse and a couple of art galleries.  The collection of works in the modern art gallery included a piece entitled “The Vomit Girl Project, 2024”.  Consisting of several hundred not very life-like statuettes of – well, yes – girls throwing up!

Made from various types of clay,  these captivating works are said “to create a refined, systematic and deeply engaging visual language.”  One can but agree!  Or not, as the case may be!

I hate to think what 2025 will bring to the public!

Amongst the many hundreds of pieces on display, this bit of extreme needlework stood out at some two metres in height.  We need one for our house!

We spent several hours in the library (fabulous, did I mention that?) and the art gallery (stunning, but the works of art were rarely domestic-house-friendly).

The day we were due to fork out another dollar to get home on the train, turned out to be the sunniest day of the city-bound expedition!  What a pity, but we do have time for another walk in the City Botanic Gardens …

… before our train trip north – passing the Glasshouse Mountains as we go.

Glenda is getting very cross.  She wants to know why so many Australians insist on putting their feet on the seats.  Come on you horrible lot, you are already not paying enough for the trip.  Bloody well respect the property of the organisation which stands to go out of business at 50 cents a pop!

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